Ngai Tahu Hui-a-Tau
Karitane
November 2010, Ajr
This blog provides a visual-verbal snapshot of Maori culture and contemporary Maori lifestyles in modern New Zealand. It presents my own experiences and observations of Maori culture and is not intended in anyway to be the definitive view on all things Maori, but rather an introduction for those who want to know more about Maori culture and its place in everyday bicultural New Zealand.



In November, I attended the opening of Ngati Wheke's new whare tipuna at Rapaki Marae, over the hills from Christchurch. It was a long stay that started with a dawn ceremony at 4.30am. It was also a baking hot day and, as usual, I was drawn to people wearing hats. 
I love photographing people in hats. They add 'something extra' - more to the point, I think a hat *says* something extra about a person; and they add another compositional dimension to a photograph. So it's a recurring theme for me. But rather than prattling on, here are a few of the hats I photographed on the day.
If you'd like to see more shots from this year's Hui-a-Tau
This year's Ngai Tahu Hui-a-Tau was staged at the tiny southern seaside village at Karitane about 35 minutes north of Dunedin, from Friday November 19-21. Numerous marquees were erected on the estuary foreshore (our view above) and around 1,000 iwi (tribe) members descended on the village for three days of meetings, 'reunions' with relatives and friends, discussions, tours and activities.
Local school pupils performed (above); a good number of Police kept and eye on proceedings, at the same time mixing in with visitors (above); and dozens of kids treated the entire location like a giant fun park (below).
It was often an exhausting business for the tamariki (children). When they weren't playing in the sea or exploring the rocky foreshore, they were joining in sack and egg-and-spoon races, hip-hop dancing or fake ta moko (tattoo) face painting sessions. The little guy pictured above finally gave in to exhaustion when he was sitting on a chair in the main tent.
Meanwhile, this group of kuia (old ladies) decided to dress alike in red cloaks so they "wouldn't lose each other" in the crowds on opening night.
I'm always staggered by the massive amount of organisation that goes into staging these big events - the feeding and accommodating of over 1,000 people is only the beginning. There are hangi to dig and prepare; meetings to schedule and run; guest speakers to organise and so much more. And the hosts this year, Kati Huirapa Runaka ki Puketeraki, even went to the trouble of decorating every hui site around the village with giant handpainted banners (above).
A crowd of keen paddlers also gathered for waka ama paddling and sailing activities on the Waikouaiti River and estuary (above); and Nuku Tirikatene-Nash ran a surf school over the sandhills at Karitane Ocean Beach.
There were demonstrations on traditional methods of working pounamu, with discussion on the distinctive characteristics of the many treasured pounamu varieties; and demonstrations of the making of traditional mokihi (rafts) (above), which are made by binding bundles of dried raupo (bullrush) leaves together with stripped harakeke (flax). The mohiki pictured above are small, take-home versions - they were traditionally made much larger to transport two to four people. Hui participants also had the chance to visit nearby Puketeraki Marae, the nearby Evansdale Cheese Factory and Huriawa Peninsula to explore the archaeology and re-vegetation of Te Pa o te Wera. Rihari Taratoa-Bannister and Kelly Tikao were also on hand in the Oi Tent, to show Oi He Whakaaro Maori Short Films. In short, there was something for everyone. www.ngaitahu.iwi.nz
Every year at the Ngai Tahu Hui-a-Tau, there's a very good craft market where iwi members can sell their arts, crafts, services and products. You'll find everything from pounamu (greenstone) and bone jewellery to pounamu platters, woven kete (baskets), stone carvings and clothing embellished with traditional designs. It's a great chance to pick up both traditional and contemporary gifts for friends and family. www.ngaitahu.iwi.nz 
Last Friday, I headed south to Karitane, about 30 minutes north of Dunedin, for the annual Ngai Tahu Hui-a-Tau hosted by Kati Huirapa Runaka ki Puketeraki. The three-day event was staged at the Karitane reserve overlooking the very pretty estuary and for the most part, the weather held. The Hui-a-Tau is a chance for Te Runanga o Ngai Tahu to meet with all iwi runanga and representatives to discuss the years activities, business and concerns. And while all those formalities are taking place, I'm usually found taking in the details of the event - photographing people and places, artisans and 'aunties.' At this year's event, I was particularly taken with all the hats, so I've decided to start my coverage with a short 'hat parade' - candid shots of a few iwi members taken during proceedings.


Te Herenga Tangata is the wood, shell and pounamu caring that represents the eighteen runanga and the people of Te Runanga o Ngai Tahu, the South Island's leading iwi (tribe). Each runanga is represented by one of the carved nobs. The carving is always present at important meetings and hui - I photographed it here, at the annual Ngai Tahu Hui-a-Tau, at Takutai o te Titi Marae, in Colac Bay, Southland in November last year.
I've been sorting through my photo files and thought it was time I featured a few more shots from the Ngai Tahu Hui-a-Tau, which was held at Takutai o te Titi Marae, at Colac Bay in Southland, last November
Mo Tatou, a, mo ka uri a muri aki nei
A lunch break inside the whare kai - a lovely space where the rafters are painted in contemporary interpretations of traditional designs. Despite the grim weather that saw some of the huge marquees blown down, everyone had a great time - their days punctuated with meetings, speeches, singing, dancing, eating, chatting, laughing and more eating. It's an annual event when many hundreds of Ngai Tahu iwi (tribe) members from the eighteen Ngai Tahu runanga around the South Island, get together at one of the runanga to discuss the business of the year as it relates to the tribe. www.nagitahu.iwi.nz