
Of Maori Legend
And Imagination
Striding the Wall
Whanganui Back Alley
May 2010.Ajr
May 2010.Ajr
This blog provides a visual-verbal snapshot of Maori culture and contemporary Maori lifestyles in modern New Zealand. It presents my own experiences and observations of Maori culture and is not intended in anyway to be the definitive view on all things Maori, but rather an introduction for those who want to know more about Maori culture and its place in everyday bicultural New Zealand.
After you've spent a couple of days driving around the North Island's East Cape, stopping at the dozens and dozens of marae you pass along the way, you begin to feel like you're in another world - and in a way you are....a Maori world for sure. East Cape's population has always been predominantly Maori and it it is still perhaps, New Zealand's richest area for seeing Maori culture within a 'real' (as opposed to tourism) context.

So after throwing yourself wholeheartedly into that mix for a couple of days, entering the region's largest town, Gisborne, is like driving into a contemporary oasis....at one level at least. For there's no doubt that Gisborne is the main centre in this part of the world and the population is still predominantly Maori. Here though, you see Maori design with a more contemporary influence - the graffiti, the murals, the contemporary carvings. I had hardly entered the town boundary when I slammed on my brakes outside Kaiti Primary School to photograph a whole line of colourful murals that ran the length of a walkway beside the school. I didn't linger too long because I was also opposite the Kaiti Community Police Centre and a uniformed member of staff seemed to be keeping an eye on my activities from the window - not that I was doing anything wrong of course, but some people do seem to get a bit fidgety when they see you brandishing a camera. In a way though, murals like these sum up my lasting impressions of Gisborne - sure it's remote and sure it's not exactly 'fashionable and trendy' but its colourful and completely unique; and its inhabitants seem to be almost encouraged to embellish the town with interesting artistic expressions. I like that about a place.
I photographed these terrific murals in Gisborne and like several others I've featured here previously, they make strong reference to traditional Maori design motifs. You don't see this proliferation of Maori mural design anywhere else in New Zealand - at least not to the degree that you come upon it in Gisborne and elsewhere in Eastland. It's understandable of course - the whole Eastland/East Cape region has a large Maori population and things Maori are very much alive and well here.
Gisborne, on the North Island's east coast is one of the more remote of New Zealand's provinvial towns and cities. It is also home to a large Maori population and I love the fact that you can walk the streets here and constantly come face-to-face with colourful murals, graffiti and street art, all with a strong Maori design theme. My time there most recently (in May) was unfortunately short, but I raced about the streets like a mad thing, photographing left, right and centre. Luckily the weather held and I was able to get a record of many of the street works that may well be gone a few months from now. I loved this mural, painted down the length of a wall of some of the Tairawhiti Polytechnic buildings. www.tairawhiti.ac.nz 