A Muriwhenua Marae

I was on my way to Karikari Peninsular in the Far North of the North Island when I veered off State Highway One and went down a side road, taking my lead from a sign that pointed the way to Parapara Marae. Like so many of these random diversions that I took on my North island trip, it turned out to be much further than I expected.

I followed the road down into a pretty, quiet valley, passing an occasional farmer, until I came to a sign pointing into Parapara Road. Not far down that gravel road, I found Parapara Marae – an unassuming cluster of little buildings with a large green lawn in front. The place was deserted. Cicadas chirped, kingfishers swooped across the lawn and not a single curtain rustled in the old houses nearby.

I loved the old church, the bell and the weathered corrugated iron structures. A lush pa harakeke and wharenui (meeting house) sat to one side. The wharenui – Te Manawa of Ngati Tara – indicating that the marae is home to the Ngati Kahu hapu, Ngati Tara, one of the northern Muriwhenua tribes. Muriwhenua means ‘this end of the land’ and is the collective name given to 6 northern tribes: Ngati Kuri, Ngai Takoto, Te Patu, Ngati Kahu, Te Aupouri and Te Rarawa. www.ngatikahu.iwi.nz

Among the Mangroves

In April-May 2009 I spent about a week working in the Far North. I made sure I programmed in enough time to go exploring – veering down side roads whenever the urge took me, delighting in unexpected finds. It was just 8am on April 30th when I pulled off State Highway One into the tiny enclave that is Kahukuraariki Marae, the Hato Hohepa Catholic School, a handful of houses and a few residential flats that I think may have been retirement homes. There was no one about – just a few cows bellowing in a nearby field.

The whole community – part of the Ngati Kahu iwi (I think!) - is just across the road from a huge mangrove swamp at the southern end of Whangaroa Harbour, with two small hills directly behind the marae. One had the look of an old terraced pa site. The simple marae building sat to one side of a pretty memorial and I sat awhile waiting to see if my arrival would stir any of the local residents. No one came out so after taking a few photographs, I moved on. It was the same throughout my two month-trip – I was always on the road so early (because of the distances I had to travel), that I often missed those special little interactions with local people. I guess that’s all the excuse I need to make a return visit this year. www.ngatikahu.iwi.nz

Maori in the Far North

Matai Bay, Karikari Peninsula, Northland. April 2009. Ajr
When I visited the Karikari Peninsula in the Far North over 30 years ago, there was nothing there but beautiful, empty beaches. I don’t think we saw another single person in all the time we were there. I returned to the Peninsula during my recent scamper around the North Island for Frommers and I was dismayed to discover that everyone else has now discovered it too. It had to happen I suppose but how discouraging to see that there are holiday homes everywhere and huge housing estates (with street lamps!) under construction! I stayed at Carrington, which is part of a 3,000 acre estate owned by an American. It would be fair to say that some of the better tourism developments – the new roads for instance – are largely attributed to him and his development of Carrington, its international golf course and Karikari Estate Winery. And to be fair, he has consulted with nearby Maori landowners. Just one example is the fact that every one of the eighteen holes on the golf course features a traditional carving created by local master carver, Hector Busby. (I’ll be bringing some of those to you soon).

But the point of all this waffling - while I was on the peninsular, I headed out to the end of the public road – to Matai Bay, which is a beautiful double-sided bay featuring two beautiful horseshoe beaches. Thankfully, there, nothing has been developed because this is Maori land and but for a tiny cluster of Maori-owned houses on the green hillocks above the bay (some flying Maori flags), there isn’t a dwelling in sight. Long may it stay that way! You can’t get right out to the very end of the peninsular – not without permission of the Maori landowners at least – and you get the feeling that isn’t obviously forthcoming. I guess you just have to know the right people to ask, not to mention having a very good reason for wanting to go there. As to the iwi owning the land? I’m not entirely sure but I’m guessing it might be one of the Ngati Kahu hapu. If anyone knows for sure, please feel free to leave a comment.

Remembering Kupe

Taipa, Far North. April 2009. Ajr

This memorial, beside the highway in the little Northland seaside town of Taipa, was erected to commemorate to all, that “the war canoe Mamaru of the Ngati Kahu was the canoe that the great Polynesian warrior, Kupe used in his voyage from Hawaiiki across the Pacific, to discover New Zealand. According to Maori tradition, the voyage was made 34 generations before the Great Migration. Kupe landed at Ikatiritiri at the mouth of the Taipa River, from where he made numerous voyages around New Zealand.”