A Place of Beauty

I've visited Te Rau Aroha Marae at Bluff in the deep south (near Invercargill) a number of times, yet I'm still amazed by the beauty of the carvings that decorate this place. The marae is set above the small, scruffy, portside town of Bluff, on the low rise of Bluff Hill and is home to Ngai Tahu's Awarua Runanga. It has commanding views and, within its own fenceline, a wealth of traditional and contemporary craftsmanship.

And the exterior carving is just a hint of the colourful contemporary interpretations that lie within. Much of the overall design and carving has been created by Maori carver and artist, Cliff Whiting (Te Whanau-a-Apanui), who was also responsible for the carvings at Te Marae Pounamu at The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa in Wellington.

[Unfortunately, I've been sidetracked by earthquake events in Christchurch these past few weeks, hence the lack of recent posts on this blog. But I hope this will change in the coming weeks and I'll be able to continue bringing you regular snippets about New Zealand's indigenous Maori life and culture].

A Gateway For History

I photographed this contemporary carved Maori gateway at Dunedin's Otago Museum last month - so different to traditional works, yet still beautiful in an entirely different way. You'll notice that, as always, I homed in on the cast shadows.
According to the museum exhibition notes, Nga Waka Tupuna o te Tai-o-Araiteuru - The Ancestral canoes of the Otago Coast - was made for the Otago Museum by the manawhenua of the Otago region, under the guidance of the artist, Cliff Whiting. A dedication ceremony was held for the gateway at the Otago Museum on November 27, 1990. The carvings on the front of the gateway depict the three canoes, Uruao, Araiteuru and Takitimu. The totara wood figures represent four important South Island ancestors. www.otagomuseum.govt.nz

The Beauties of Rongomaraeroa

Two top images courtesy of Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa

The first time I saw Te Marae at the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, I was gobsmacked by the rainbow of coloured light that was seeping across the forecourt – reflections from the beautiful stained glass windows behind me (which I’ll show you another time). It took me some time to re-focus on the stunning carvings that decorate the wharenui (Te Hono Ki Hawaiki) and in the many times I’ve seen them since, I’ve been no less impressed.

Wellington April 2009. Ajr
Rongomaraeroa is the name given to the marae, which was created by master carver, Cliff Whiting and the Maori advisory group to Te Papa, Nga Kaiwawao, who aimed to create a fully functional contemporary marae within the museum – “one that would embrace the concept of mana taonga and the principles of the Treaty of Waitangi.” It was opened in 1997 and is “the museum’s response to the challenge of creating an authentic yet inclusive marae (communal meeting place) for the 21st century.” In addition to serving as ‘a living marae’ it is also an exhibition in its own right, designed to give visitors an insight into the meaning of the marae experience. It is also – obviously – a beautiful showcase of contemporary Maori arts and crafts; and a reflection of both the nation’s and Te Papa’s bicultural identity. “All people have the right to stand on this marae through a shared whakapapa (genealogy) and the mana (power) of the taonga (treasures) held in Te Papa collections.” It is a place for all cultures and all iwi (tribes). www.tepapa.govt.nz

Marking Territory

Hawai, East Cape. May 2009 Ajr

I love the way so many North Island iwi (tribes) mark the borders of their tribal territory with large signs. I came upon this one in early May, the day I left Rotorua to drive around East Cape. It was just before the little beach settlement of Hawai . Te Whanau-a-Apanui land extends from Te Taumata-o-Apanui (between Torere and Hawai) as far north as Potaka, near the top of the Cape. There are 13 hapu within the tribe, which was named after the 17th century ancestor, Apanui Ringamutu, who had four wives and more than 17 children. He is represented in a carving in the contemporary marae, Te Hono ki Hawaiki, in Te Papa Tongarewa Museum of New Zealand – carved by well known contemporary carver, Cliff Whiting (Te Whanau-a-Apanui). Today Te Whanau-a-Apanui has investments in forestry blocks, fisheries operations and other industries and most of their 11,808 population (2006) is based in Bay of Plenty. Their tribal authority, Te Runanga o Te Whanau is based in Opotoki. www.apanui.co.nz