@ Te Puia
Rotorua
May 2009. Ajr
This blog provides a visual-verbal snapshot of Maori culture and contemporary Maori lifestyles in modern New Zealand. It presents my own experiences and observations of Maori culture and is not intended in anyway to be the definitive view on all things Maori, but rather an introduction for those who want to know more about Maori culture and its place in everyday bicultural New Zealand.
Of the dozens and dozens and dozens of kete (baskets) I have photographed over the last year, this one remains my favourite. I snapped it at the Weaving School at Rotorua's Te Puia - a marvellous place to see weavers at work. There you'll see the whole process - from green fibre all the way through preparation, drying, dyeing and weaving. And in the unlikely event you get bored with that, you can walk next door to Te Wananga Whakairo - The Carving School...which I've also featured on this blog recently. (Click on words in the label line below this post if you'd like to see more). www.tepuia.com 


I love trying to capture the detail of craftspeople of any kind at work. There's often a greater beauty (for me) in those tiny, close-up movements than in the bigger picture. I took these photographs at The Weaving School at Rotorua's Te Puia. www.tepuia.com 
When Rotorua's leading tourist attraction Te Puia created a new mutli-million entrance and extension a few years back, they went all-out on the construction of a spectacular new entrance. Unfortunately it was raining the day I swung by last year, but this shot will give you some idea of the stunning carvings that adorn the gateway. The entrance is marked by a set of five carved waharoa (gateways), each slightly smaller than the one before it. According to Maori tradition, each represents the five stages of development in the creation of the physical world. Through the waharoa, visitors enter Te Heketanga-a-Rangi (Heavenly origins), a large, serene space filled with many more amazing carvings, that represents the spiritual beliefs of Maori. It was opened in 2007 as part of Te Puia's major re-development that has, to my mind, turned it into one of the best Maori cultural attractions in the country. If you'd like to see more photos of the entrance, click on Te Puia in the label line below. www.tepuia.com 
I photographed this beautiful little wharenui at Te Puia in Rotorua last year. Te Whare Wananga a Hatu Patu was built in 1901 and transported to Christchurch, where it formed part of the traditional Maori village that was constructed in Hagley Park for the Royal visit in 1906. It was later returned to Whakarewarewa. It's beautifully carved and contains classic examples of Ngati Porou carving from East Cape. 
Last year's trip around New Zealand researching my travel guide manuscript (Frommers New Zealand), provided me with a bounty of photographic opportunities for both my blogs. My visit (one of many) and tour of Rotorua's Te Puia was especially fruitful - this despite the grim, wet weather on the day. A core part of Te Puia is the New Zealand Maori Arts & Crafts Institute, which features both weaving and carving schools.
Te Wananga Whakairo (The Carving School) was established in 1966. The school's first Tohunga (Master), Hone Te Kauru Taiapa was appointed when the school opened and remained its head until he passed away in 1979. He was succeeded later that year by the now-late Master Carver, Tuti Tukaokao. Heads and carving tutors have since been appointed from the ranks of successful, experienced graduates of the carving school. 
If you visit Te Puia, you can enter both the weaving and the carving schools and watch the craftsmen and women, as they work on their weaving and carving projects. In the carving studio, the smell of timber and wood chips is pleasantly strong and visitors come and go, taking photographs and chatting with carvers, who have a little time on their hands. The key lesson at Te Wananga Whakairo is "learning the art to pass it on to younger generations."
I found it a fascinating place to spend time in and my camera was kept busy as I photographed close-up carving details and the intent expressions of carvers at work. They're used to the attention, though some obviously relish it more than others. Fulltime students spend three years at the carving school under the guidance of master carvers, many of whom were once students at the school themselves. In the forty or more years it has been operating, the Carving School has (partly or fully) carved over 30 wharenui (meeting houses) throughout New Zealand, plus "countless gifts for official guests and dignataries visiting new Zealand. www.tepuia.com 
I am seldom without my camera. This means I can almost always try and capture some pleasing visual encounter; and invariably, that is as much about the small, often overlooked details of things as much as it is the wider view. Other people for instance, photograph the bigger scene of the Maori cultural performance; I home in on the small vignettes, the little peeps into the bigger picture - the fabrics and fibres, the tattoos, the traditional jewellery and in this case, at Te Puia in Rotorua, the traditionally, patterned carpet. For me it makes a richer picture. It alludes to the unseen and it makes you consider something that might otherwise never have been seen.



