A Place with History

Makirikiri. May 2009. Ajr
Makirikiri Marae, near Dannevirke in the lower North Island is home to three hapu of the Rangitane iwi – Ngati Mututahi, Ngati Hamua and Ngati Te Rangiwhakaewa. When I called in to see the marae it was mid-morning in May and my time was short. I stood awhile and admired the exterior carvings of the wharenui, Aotea, thinking how different they seemed to many I had seen on my North Island travels, yet not quite able to describe how exactly – darker I think, more heavily painted perhaps… if that doesn’t seem too superficial an observation.
It wasn’t until I got home many weeks later that I discovered the marae has a long and intriguing history. For a start, the first wharenui called Aotea was built by Ngati Te Rangiwhakaewa at Tawakeroa, near Tahoraiti, some miles from Makirikiri, about fourteen generations ago. Much later, Ngati Mutuahi started building a carved house at Tahoraiti in 1880, working with carvers from the Te Arawa iwi and craftsmen from the Ngati Tu hapu of Whanganui to complete the tukutuku panels and the embellishment of rafters. That house, named Aotea Tua-Toru, was completed in 1883.

During the 1950 and 1960s these Rangitane hapu areas were prone to the same population exodus as many others, as Maori moved to urban areas for work. The Aotea wharenui at Tahoriti was virtually abandoned and it fell into disrepair. Those hapu members remaining in the area decided to dismantle it and reassemble it closer to populated areas where hapu members could make better use of it. Hence its shift to its current location at Makirikiri, where it opened afresh – smaller but using the original carved wharenui barge boards from Tahoraiti – in 1967. A Tainui contingent led by Te Arikinui Te Atairangikaahu attended the dawn opening ceremony of Aotea Tua-Toru; and then Prime Minister, Sir Keith Holyoake gave an opening speech. www.rangitane.co.nz

A Traditional Favourite

Northland. May 2009. Ajr

Kumara = Sweet Potato

Highly prized by Maori as a staple food, the kumara grows especially well in the Far North of New Zealand. I passed numerous commercial kumara growers as I drove through Northland in April and May and I couldn't resist a photo or two. There's something about seeing any word blown-up beyond normal scale that always appeal to me. Kumara appeal to me too - especially kumara chips baked in the oven - one of my favourites. And you'll rarely attend a Maori hangi that doesn't include kumara. I just can't imagine that ever happening.

Coastal Walkway

Kaikoura. April 2009 Ajr

It was very early morning when I pulled into South Bay at Kaikoura on my way north a few months back. But I had heard all about the new Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway and regardless of weather or time of day, I was determined to stop and take a look. That meant sitting in my car awhile waiting for the sun to come up and while it was still far from a perfect photographic day, I eventually got some shots. The walkway is a joint community project between Whale Watch Charitable Trust, Te Runanga o Kaikoura, the Kaikoura District Council and the Department of Conservation. Whale Watch and Te Runanga o Kaikoura have allowed access over private land for part of the walkway and its well supported by excellent information panels detailing the history, people, geology and the flora and fauna of the area. At 11.7km long, the track is a good three hours from South Bay around the coast to Kaikoura itself and even early in the morning, it was being well used by walkers and runners. These carvings are all at the South Bay end. I haven’t been able to find out anything about them yet but I am assuming they have been created by a team from Takahanga Marae in Kaikoura. I’ll get back to you when I have clarity on that – or if any readers can tell me, please leave a comment as I’m keen to find out the details.

Meet the People - 20

Another in the Series Meet the People – Contemporary Maori Doing Ordinary and Extraordinary Things – Jo Tito (Taranaki, Ngati Pikiao Tuhourangi-Ngati Wahiao), grew up in the small village of Waipa, 5km south of Rotorua and now lives in Gisborne with her partner, Todd (Taranaki, Te Ati-Haunui-a-Paparangi) and two of his children. Both are fluent Maori speakers. “I learned a little Maori while I was at school – maybe an hour a week – but it wasn’t until I experienced total immersion back home in Taranaki that I became fluent. It’s definitely the best way to learn,” she says. Jo is very much driven by her passion for Maori language. It is at the root of everything she does – including in her work as an artist and photographer. “I am inspired by the patterns of nature as my ancestors were, but my work is not solely based on Maori culture. The spiral for instance, appears in my work regularly and while it is a common Maori design element, it is also seen in many other cultures. But I am very much driven by our Maori language and wherever I can incorporate this into my work I will. It’s a whole different world when your whakaaro, your way of thinking, is in Maori. This inspires me to create.”

"Kohatu (rock)" Painted rock by Jo Tito
Jo works in a number of mediums including photography, which she has been doing professionally and as a love for 15 years. Much of her artwork also focuses on natural materials like the kohatu (rock), which she hand-paints and the paper she makes from harakeke (flax). Many of her photographs are printed on her own handmade harakeke paper. “I’m passionate about the land and sustainable living; and by working in rock and flax, I feel very connected to the land and its stories,” she says. Her work has been exhibited in Rotorua, Taranaki, Gisborne, America Samoa and Arizona; and she travelled with a New Zealand delegation of artists to Palau in 2004 and American Samoa in 2008, for the International Festival of Pacific Arts. She’s won awards for both photography and fibre work; and while she was living in Taranaki, she curated an exhibition called “Wahine,” for the Taranaki District Health Board, to highlight the importance of cervical screening for women. “I love hauora (personal health and wellbeing).”

"Whariki (Mat)" Photo by Jo Tito
Factor in the writing of “Matarakau – Healing Stories of Taranaki,” a collection of Taranaki whanau stories on traditional Maori healing; research for another collection of stories looking at the effects of colonisation on indigenous peoples around the world; her own marketing business; digital storytelling, reading and self-development and you begin to see why Jo, 35, is a terrific role model for young Maori women everywhere. You can read more about her online here. - http://inspirationalwebsite.net/ Jo’s wrist moko (tattoo), shown in the top photograph, were created by Mark Kopua. The moko on her feet, legs and back (not shown) were created by Julie Kipa.

Giant Waka Gets Makeover

Image Courtesy Waitangi National Trust

Ngatokimatawhaorua is a sight to behold. Probably the largest waka (war canoe) in the world it is 35 metres long, weighs in at 6 tonnes, has room for 120 paddlers and has reached a maximum speed of 27 knots (35mph/51kph). Built in 1935 from three massive kauri trees felled in Northland’s Puketi Fortest and launched as part of the Centenary Celebrations in 1940, it now sits in a specially designed korowai (shelter) at Hobson’s Beach on the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in the Bay of Islands. It was carved by seven carvers at Waipapa, near Kerikeri under the supervision of Pita Hepera, and is a larger version of the waka that carried visiting and raiding parties on long coastal voyages before and after the first Europeans arrived in New Zealand. The name Ngatokimatawhaorua was the name of the original voyaging waka in which the ancient explorer, Kupe is said to have used on his voyage to Aotearoa.

Left: Tau Iho Right: Taurapa Photo: Ajr April 2009

Tauiho - April 2009. Ajr
The carved tau iho, at the front of the canoe, is an ancient genealogical record and a history of construction; while the elaborately carved taurapa (sternpost) is used for navigation. It is designed to cut the head wind and when it whistles, it is an indication that the vessel is balanced and travelling in a straight line.

Rear View showing taurapa. April 2009. Ajr
The waka is still used every year during the Waitangi Day celebrations and it will be the showstopper at the 2010 Year of the Waka Waitangi Day celebrations, when over 50 waka from around the South Pacific come together. To ready her for the event – and her 70th birthday - the team from Te Aurere Waka recently met at Waitangi to give her a makeover. The waka was completely pulled apart and repaired, tarred, repainted and relashed. www.waitangi.net.nz

Taonga - Treasures

Auckland. April 2009 Ajr
Auckland Museum's Maori Treasures Gallery is a place of so many taonga (treasures) that it leaves you feeling a little overwhelmed. There's an intangible sense of power there too. It's a place that demands time and attention. This carved head is a Kahia (palisade post) carved in the style of Ngati Manawa and the Tuhoe iwi of the Bay of Plenty Region.

www.aucklandmuseum.com

Tiny Tiki

Tiki on a String

Kaikoura

April 2009 Ajr

A Sunday Church Moment

Rotorua. May 2009. Ajr

I LOVE Maori churches and the fact that elaborate decoration is the order of the day. This one, the Catholic Church - The Church of the Immaculate Conception - at Whakarewarewa Thermal Village in Rotorua is a little more restrained than others I've been in, but it's beautiful nonetheless - serene, quiet, peaceful. Built in 1904, it is the oldest building in the village and it sits at the highest point of the village.

Rotorua 2009. Ajr

The church is surrounded by a fascinating, beautifully kept urupa (cemetery), where many whanau (family) of the resident Ngati Wahiao people are buried in pristine white tombs. Because the village sits on an active and very hot geothermal field, the people are unable to bury their dead underground. Instead they are interred in these white tombs above ground.
www.whakarewarewa.com

Kapa Haka Live Worldwide

Image courtesy Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa
Don't forget!
Today - Live
300 Senior Maori Kapa Haka Performers put on a great show for the whole world via the Te Papa website - www.tepapa.govt.nz/kapahaka From 10:30am to 3:30pm today, Saturday, New Zealand time; and again on Sunday from 10am senior Maori (kaumatua) perform for the closing of Te Papa's Matariki Festival. Tune in for a great show. Read more about it in my posting below and on Te Papa's website.

Scene Stealer

Rotorua. May 2009. Ajr
When I visited Whakarewarewa Maori Thermal Village in Rotorua in May, I was treated to a kapa haka performance - one where the tiny whanau (family) were encouraged onto the stage to take their place with the performing grown-ups. This little girl in the pink was a complete natural and she stole the show. She and her little friend are taking their turn with the pois. www.whakarewarewa.com

A Northland School

Northland. May 2009. Ajr
I loved this carved gateway at Pukepoto Primary School, near Ahipara in the Far North

From the Collection

A kiekie kete (basket) used for collecting karaka berries

Now in the Auckland Museum kete collection

www.aucklandmuseum.com

A Reminder - Maori Performance Live Online

Image courtesy Museum of New Zealand - Te Papa Tongarewa

Following my earlier posts about Te Marae at the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa in Wellington, here’s a reminder about the live online Maori cultural performance this weekend - you’ll be able to see part of the museum’s Matariki Festival closing online, whether you’re in Wanganui, Warsaw or Washington. Using the power of TelstraClear’s Next IP Network, around 300 senior Maori performing artists will get to perform in front of a worldwide audience on the weekend of July 11 and 12. Kaumatua Kapa Haka is one of the highlights of Te Papa’s Matariki festival and for the first time, it will be webcast live online at www.tepapa.govt.nz/kapahaka.
Ngati Porou performers
Many of the performers gathering at Te Papa for Kaumatua Kapa Haka have been learning Maori performing arts since they were young children and the oldest member amongst the groups is 93 years old. They’ll be performing some classic wiata (songs) by 20th century composers like Tuini Ngawai, Sir Apirana Ngata and Kohine Ponika
Both images courtesy Museum of New Zealand - Te Papa Tongarewa
The eight groups performing are the Auckland Anglican Maori Club (Auckland); Te Whanau a Kohine Ponika (Auckland/Bay of Plenty); He Kura ki Waikato (Waikato); Te Hokowhitua Tu (Gisborne); Taranaki ki te Tonga (South Taranaki); Ngati Kahungunu (Hawke’s Bay/Wairarapa), Te Ropu Tahiwi a Te Whanganui-a-Tara (Wellington); and Te Wiwi Nati (Wellington). The performances will be held on Saturday July 11, from 10:30am to 3.30pm NZ time and from 10am on Sunday July 12. You can find updates about the event on Te Papa’s Facebook page, http://www.facebook.com/; and you can learn more about senior Maori performing arts at www.kaumatuakapahaka.com www.tepapa.govt.nz Don't forget to tune in!

Bridging the Gap

Wellington. April 2009. Ajr

Although I've used this photo in the past (smaller), I'm revisiting it. I was trawling through photographs yesterday trying to decide what to run with this morning and this one leapt out at me. It's part of the City to Sea Bridge in inner city Wellington, which was created by Hawke's Bay Maori artist, Para Matchitt in 1993. If you click on City to Sea Bridge in the label line below, you'll be able to read more about it and see more of the stunning sculptures that make it stand out in a city of highrise and glass.

Fenced In

Rotorua. May 2009. Ajr

This fabulous fence runs across the front boundary of Rotorua's Government Gardens, where you'll find the Rotorua Museum of Art & History, the Blue Baths, the Polynesian Spa and several other interesting attractions. I LOVE this fence and I have an embarassing number of photos of it from every angle. www.rotoruamuseum.co.nz

Another Luscious Moment

Image courtesy of Too Luscious, Rotorua
Hot Orange
A Tiki Bracelet
From Too Luscious
http://www.tooluscious.com/
You can meet the two talented girls behind the Too Luscious range by clicking on Meet the People in the label line below this post.

Maori Place Names - 15

Near Cromwell

South Island

May 2009. Ajr

Turangawaewae - A Place to Stand

Turangawaewae from across the Waikato River. April 2009 Ajr

I grew up in rural Waikato and whenever we drove through Ngaruawahia (near Hamilton), on our way north to Auckland, I was captivated by glimpses of Turangawaewae Marae on the banks of the Waikato River. Those were the days when Te Arikinui Dame Te Atairangikaahu was leader of the Maori King Movement (Te Kingitanga) and for the childhood me, all that was riddled in romance and intrigue. I imagined her, sitting on a throne inside Turangawaewae, being friendly and benevolent. Te Arikinui Dame Te Atairangikaahu died on August 15, 2006 and was succeeded by her eldest son, Tuheitia Paki. I drove through Ngaruawahia on my recent North Island travels and, for the first time in my life, I made a detour off the main highway to find the gates to Turangawaewae. There was never going to be any chance of going inside of course but that didn’t matter because the gates to the marae complex are stunningly beautiful and it was enough for me to stand in awe of that incredible craftsmanship.
Ngaruawahia April 2009. Ajr
Turangawaewae, which means a place to stand was established in the 1920s and 1930s under the leadership of Princess Te Puea Herangi, a granddaughter of King Tawhiao, the second Maori king. She gave new life to the Kingitanga Movement, helping it become a central force of the Tainui people of the Waikato region.

Ceremonial Gates, Turangawaewae. April 2009. Ajr
Today the marae complex sits on several acres and is an international showcase of Maoridom for visiting international dignitaries. Queen Elizabeth II and other members of the British royal family have visited, as have the Tongan, Cook Islands and Samoan royal families, plus Nelson Mandela and many others. Like the fantastic gates and fences that surround the complex, the interior buildings are exquisite examples of traditional Maori craftsmanship. I wasn’t able to see much of course, but by craning my neck I did get glimpses – the most memorable glimpse being Turongo House, which I have since seen photographs of. I’ll write about that another time – it will be worth the wait I promise. In the meantime, I hope you'll enjoy the beauty of these gates as much as I did. There are plenty more of those to come to.

The Beauties of Rongomaraeroa

Two top images courtesy of Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa

The first time I saw Te Marae at the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, I was gobsmacked by the rainbow of coloured light that was seeping across the forecourt – reflections from the beautiful stained glass windows behind me (which I’ll show you another time). It took me some time to re-focus on the stunning carvings that decorate the wharenui (Te Hono Ki Hawaiki) and in the many times I’ve seen them since, I’ve been no less impressed.

Wellington April 2009. Ajr
Rongomaraeroa is the name given to the marae, which was created by master carver, Cliff Whiting and the Maori advisory group to Te Papa, Nga Kaiwawao, who aimed to create a fully functional contemporary marae within the museum – “one that would embrace the concept of mana taonga and the principles of the Treaty of Waitangi.” It was opened in 1997 and is “the museum’s response to the challenge of creating an authentic yet inclusive marae (communal meeting place) for the 21st century.” In addition to serving as ‘a living marae’ it is also an exhibition in its own right, designed to give visitors an insight into the meaning of the marae experience. It is also – obviously – a beautiful showcase of contemporary Maori arts and crafts; and a reflection of both the nation’s and Te Papa’s bicultural identity. “All people have the right to stand on this marae through a shared whakapapa (genealogy) and the mana (power) of the taonga (treasures) held in Te Papa collections.” It is a place for all cultures and all iwi (tribes). www.tepapa.govt.nz

Birds of a Feather

Paradise Duck - Putangitangi

Water's Edge, Christchurch

For Food & Feathers